Magigoo 3D Printing bed adhesive

September 6th, 2017


I’ve been printing quite a while and tried pretty much everything to get prints to stick to the bed. Blue painters tape, Kapton Tape, Hairspray, Glue stick, Acrylic, Buildtak, Clean Glass. For the most part that all work to some degree.

Blue tape works, but it wears off after a couple of prints and hopefully you don’t press to hard into the tape and it just becomes part of your print.

Kapton Tape, I don’t think I ever got this to work.

Glue stick, works, sort of. Parts stick kind of, and when it cools, they still stick, it’s glue.

Acrylic, umm. It melts and warps eventually. But you can print on it for a bit, careful don’t get the nozzle too close!

Hairspray, parts stick, for maybe 1 or 2 prints, and they still stick when it’s cool. Hopefully you didn’t put too much on or spray the rest of your printer too.

Buildtak, pretty much a waste of whatever it is. Parts would stick to it and become one with it. Unless you just barely drop the filament onto the stuff, in which case you get a rats nest for a first layer.

Clean Glass, has been the winner for me. So normally when I print on clean bare glass, I have to clean it and make sure the bed is perfectly level. I mean perfectly level. So I have to do this pretty much every print, maybe every other one. PLA sticks at 55C and float off when below 40C. Until you want to print with ABS or PETG. PETG Still sticks really well to the bare glass at 80C, sometimes it sticks so well the glass comes off with the part! ABS I don’t print really. But I’m pretty sure it won’t stick well without an enclosed chamber and 100 other conditions.

That’s where Magigoo comes in. Parts stick like buildtak when it’s hot, and nearly float off when below 30C. With the Magigoo, I’ve been able to put an even layer on and launch about 5-10 prints without touching the bed. This, is kind of a game changer. This makes me a bit lazy, but is another piece of the puzzle to being able to launch prints remotely and knock the print off with the nozzle when it’s done. Also, parts that have a very small footprint, I would normally use a raft and support, with Magigoo it’s really not needed. Probably save $5-10 in extra filament right there. The fact that it lasts more than 5 prints per application, that’s pretty huge. Then it’s going to extend the life of your glass as well. How much is that worth? This will give you plenty of prints for less than $20 in Magigoo. I think it’s totally worth it.

Is it hard to apply to the bed? I think it’s hard to re-print a part a few times because the print isn’t printing perfect in the first few layers. And what if you’re not there? How you going to clean off that little bit?

Ambidextrous

December 27th, 2016

This is a modern art sculpture I created called Ambidextrous. I call it that because from time to time I flip it around and it has a different look. I like the single white color as it lends the most to imagination, but it can easily be painted. Ambidextrous

Working with The Build Shop and Amelia from the Motion Picture Costumers Union, Local 705, We Modeled, 3D Printed, and then electroplated for the final look.

I 3D modeled this under Amelia’s direction, The Build shop 3D Printed it with there polyjet, objet 3D printer. Then had it electroplated.
Comic-Con’s 42nd Masquerade Costume Competition

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Screen Shot 2016-08-07 at 8.51.57 PM

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Motion Picture Costumers Union, Local 705: Clip the stray threads and hide those safety pins! This year for the first time The Motion Picture Costumers Union Local 705 is joining the judges table for the 42nd Annual Masquerade event. The costumers’/judges’ choice will win a trophy created by members of the union, and generous prizes from their Premier Sponsors. This technical award is seeking Costume Entries whose skillful execution, creativity, and attention to detail most highlights an imaginative adaptation of the source or custom design.

Akralon Celtic Barbarian

March 2nd, 2016

Deep inside the mountain forests of Akralon, known for their unparalleled beauty and dangerous inhabitants, roams a fearless warrior known as the Celt. As the arctic wind knifes through his matted braids, his stoic stance is that of a fortress unmoved by the harsh bite of the cold. His awareness is constant, sharpened by years of mortal combat against foes that have fallen much larger men. Slung over his shoulders and inscribed within the steel of his twin Carolingian swords, lies his family’s coat of arms; a remembrance of generations of men that fought against the dark evils of this world, when other men cowered and ran. The Ancient Celtic Runes running down his arms and etched deep inside his skin do not hide the battle scars he endured while standing for what he believes in, the only thing still worth fighting for, his loyalty.

Check back daily for progress updates and enjoy the journey as we go from low poly to sculpted beauty!

I don’t know why I haven’t done this sooner, this only took me 5 minutes and will save me hours over its lifetime. By default if you drag n’ drop an image file into Maya it will open it with fcheck image viewer. Which I can’t think of a convenient use for. This tiny little script will allow you to drag and drop an image file (currently just tif jpg and png, but you can add more following the format) and it will create a free image plane with the image. This works with multiple files too.

Previously you have to create an image plane, hit ctrl+a for the attribute editor, oops image plane wasn’t selected, find it in the scene or outliner, select it, go back to the attribute edtior, click the folder icon, navigate from some obscure folder back to your project folder and double-click on the image file.

This script re-defines one of the default procedures in the performFileDropAction.mel located in the Maya program file scripts. You won’t want to edit that file, but you can just copy paste this into the script editor as a mel script, then drag it to your shelf for quick access. The other option is to put this in a .mel file in your user/Maya/Script folder, then source it in your userSetup.mel file. That will run it every Maya launches. If you need further instructions on this feel free to comment and I’ll elaborate more on installing scripts.

// > Copy below <

global proc int 
performFileDropAction (string $theFile)
{
    if ( ( `gmatch $theFile "*.jpg" ` ) || 
    ( `gmatch $theFile "*.tif"` ) || 
    ( `gmatch $theFile "*.png"` ) )
    {
        // create an image plane with $theFile
        string $theImagePlane[] = `imagePlane -maintainRatio 1 -lookThrough persp`;
        setAttr -type "string" ( $theImagePlane[0]+".imageName" ) $theFile;
        return 1;
    }
    else
        {
          return( performFileImportAction( $theFile ) );
      }
}
// > Copy Above <

I modeled these for back in August of 2014 for the The Build Shop. I was very excited to see it as the sword for Power Rangers bootleg by Adi Shankar.

Samurai_SwordHandle_05

3D Model: Mummy Hand

July 23rd, 2014

Modeled in Maya then Mudbox then 3D printed on my Ultimaker. Click image for HiRez interactive 360.

This Mummy Hand was a model I did to get a freelance contract to do more work for guitargrip.com.   I modeled the lowpoly in Maya and did the high resolution details in Mudbox.  The wraps are separate geometry from the hand itself.  At first I didn’t bother booleaning and combining the geometry because Cura has a great option to ignore internal wall structures.  So this allowed me to less work in between half size test prints.  This option combine everything (Type-A) under the expert settings.

I printed this on my Ultimaker Original at 50micron layer height.  The main goal was maximum quality so this took almost 40hrs to print.  At the time I did not have the heated bed upgrade and printed on blue painters tape which worked fine with PLA.  And this was only a 5% infill to save as much time as possible.  I did not use any support even though there was some significant over hang with the wraps.  This turned out to have an interesting and positive effect for this design with the mummy wraps.  The wraps came out stringy on the underside which gave it an unraveled look.

I used Ultimachine White PLA at 210c with retraction to minimize strings.  It still had plenty of stringing between the fingers but wasn’t very hard to clean up.  I also needed to make sure I had cooling set to at least 15-20 seconds during the last part of the finger nails so it didn’t goop up and I also had dual fans on the printer at that time.  This has always been something I struggle with.

This is also the first version of the Mummy hand as I later redesigned the wraps to be less repetitive between the fingers.  I also updated the proportions and fingers.  The first one was more distorted and creepy I think but not very practical.  I can publish these models if anyone is interested.

Click image for interactive 360

Mummy Hand Print

Mouse over for wire frame. Click Image to go to TurboSquid and buy. More info below images.


Velocity Cycling Jersey


Velocity Jersey Zipper


Velocity Jersey UV Layout

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This Celtic style Treasure Chest was kind of fun model to create even though it was tricky because of its small-scale.  This is intended to be used in a board game so it’s about 3/4″ inches wide.  It can easily painted or scaled up for any type of miniature use.

3D Printable Celtic Treasure Chest

 

It’s available now for download or you can request a print on these various marketplaces.

Download 3D Printable file
Ponoko.com
Maker6.com
3Dagogo.com

Request a print
Sculpteo.com
Shapeways.com

This is a broken pillar 3d printable model for use as a miniature or with board games.

Pillar Broken Bottom

 

It’s available now for download or you can request a print on these various marketplaces.

Download 3D Printable file
Ponoko.com
Maker6.com
3Dagogo.com

Request a print
Sculpteo.com
Shapeways.com